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DESIGN
TERMINOLOGY |
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PEOPLE
WITH WHOM DESIGNERS WOULD WORK :
- Merchandiser
: Decides how a product is to be
sold - i.e. display, catalogue creation, in
some companies creating the line itself.
- Marketer
: Usually specializing in
analyzing the market for a given company and
often specifying what jewelry will be created.
- Buyer
: Representative of a retail
concern who buys product wholesale from a
vendor/manufacturer. Jewelry buyers often
attend trade shows to look at product.
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SETTING
TERMINOLOGY :
- Bezel Setting
: the stone is completely surrounded
with a frame of metal
Tiffany Setting
: Plain 4-prong setting for a diamond,
primarily used in solitaire rings - developed
and originally marketed by Tiffany.
- Channel
Setting : stones
are set between two channels of metal
- Half : Channel
setting
- Prong Setting
: stone or stones set in
four to six metal prongs
- Gypsy/Flush/Burnished
setting
: stone or stones set into
the metal directly by countersinking into
metal and burnishing the edges around the
stone
- Nick Setting
: Same as Pick Setting.
Usually applied to diamond setting - gives
the appearance of channel setting however
gold is nicked out of the floor or walls of
the channel to hold stones in place.
- Pick Setting
: See Nick Setting.
- Pin Setting
: Pave setting with stones
further apart and separated by more prongs
to give Wall-Prong Setting - Stones are set/secured
in a ? wall, ? prong setting.
- Tube Setting
: Metal tubing that secures
the girdle of the stone.
- Milgrain
: Antique texture applied
to edges of jewelry to give it an estate feel.
- Tension
Setting
: Stone is held in place
by tension of two pieces of metal.
- Pave
: Stones set close together
and held in place by beads (or grains) which
cover a surface with a look of paving stones
("pave" in French) or a glittering
carpet. Small round faceted stones are usually
used in this application.
- Pre-set
: A prong setting that is
obtained as a finding and which has a stone
already in place.
- V-Setting/Chevron
: A V-shaped prong that holds
the corners of stones, such as marquise or
squares.
- Basket Setting
: Holds a cluster of stones
that may or may not surround a larger center
stone. The basket look is obtained as the
outer prongs of the surrounding stones sweep
down to the finger bezel under the cluster.
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CASTING
TERMINOLOGY :
- Wax
: Replica of a piece of jewelry
in hard wax.
- Vacuum Casting
: Casting technique in which
the molten metal is forced into the mold by
vacuum pressure.
- Centrifugal
: Casting technique in which
the molten metal is forced into the mold by
centrifugal force.
- Cuttlefish
: The bone of a small squid
called a cuttlefish, one can often find them
on beaches. The material is porous and soft,
cutting easily and able to take the heat of
casting simple forms in silver or gold. A
simple form of casting often used for small
workshops.
- Wax Tree
: A method of setting up
multiple waxes for casting, involving the
waxes to be attached to a central wax core
which then goes into the casting investment.
- Injection
Wax : Wax used to
inject into molds for casting.
- Rubber Mold
: For casting of alloys with
a low melting point, such as tin alloys used
in costume jewelry. This process eliminates
the need for investment and burnout which
is necessary with metals with a higher melting
point, such as silver, gold and platinum.
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© All
rights reserved to creations
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