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DESIGN TERMINOLOGY
 
 
 

    
bullet01 PEOPLE WITH WHOM DESIGNERS WOULD WORK :

  • Merchandiser : Decides how a product is to be sold - i.e. display, catalogue creation, in some companies creating the line itself.
  • Marketer : Usually specializing in analyzing the market for a given company and often specifying what jewelry will be created.
  • Buyer : Representative of a retail concern who buys product wholesale from a vendor/manufacturer. Jewelry buyers often attend trade shows to look at product.

 
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bullet01 SETTING TERMINOLOGY :

  • Bezel Setting : the stone is completely surrounded with a frame of metal
    Tiffany Setting : Plain 4-prong setting for a diamond, primarily used in solitaire rings - developed and originally marketed by Tiffany.
  • Channel Setting : stones are set between two channels of metal
  • Half : Channel setting
  • Prong Setting : stone or stones set in four to six metal prongs
  • Gypsy/Flush/Burnished setting : stone or stones set into the metal directly by countersinking into metal and burnishing the edges around the stone
  • Nick Setting : Same as Pick Setting. Usually applied to diamond setting - gives the appearance of channel setting however gold is nicked out of the floor or walls of the channel to hold stones in place.
  • Pick Setting : See Nick Setting.
  • Pin Setting : Pave setting with stones further apart and separated by more prongs to give Wall-Prong Setting - Stones are set/secured in a ? wall, ? prong setting.
  • Tube Setting : Metal tubing that secures the girdle of the stone.
  • Milgrain : Antique texture applied to edges of jewelry to give it an estate feel.
  • Tension Setting : Stone is held in place by tension of two pieces of metal.
  • Pave : Stones set close together and held in place by beads (or grains) which cover a surface with a look of paving stones ("pave" in French) or a glittering carpet. Small round faceted stones are usually used in this application.
  • Pre-set : A prong setting that is obtained as a finding and which has a stone already in place.
  • V-Setting/Chevron : A V-shaped prong that holds the corners of stones, such as marquise or squares.
  • Basket Setting : Holds a cluster of stones that may or may not surround a larger center stone. The basket look is obtained as the outer prongs of the surrounding stones sweep down to the finger bezel under the cluster.

 
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bullet01 CASTING TERMINOLOGY :

  • Wax : Replica of a piece of jewelry in hard wax.
  • Vacuum Casting : Casting technique in which the molten metal is forced into the mold by vacuum pressure.
  • Centrifugal : Casting technique in which the molten metal is forced into the mold by centrifugal force.
  • Cuttlefish : The bone of a small squid called a cuttlefish, one can often find them on beaches. The material is porous and soft, cutting easily and able to take the heat of casting simple forms in silver or gold. A simple form of casting often used for small workshops.
  • Wax Tree : A method of setting up multiple waxes for casting, involving the waxes to be attached to a central wax core which then goes into the casting investment.
  • Injection Wax : Wax used to inject into molds for casting.
  • Rubber Mold : For casting of alloys with a low melting point, such as tin alloys used in costume jewelry. This process eliminates the need for investment and burnout which is necessary with metals with a higher melting point, such as silver, gold and platinum.
 
 
     
 
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